African Wings: Part 2 - Rundu to Etosha

AFRICAN WINGS: PART 2: RUNDU TO ETOSHA

Join us on a 6500km flying adventure through Namibia starting at Rundu on the Angolan border and ending at Oranjemund;  the quirky mining town of the Sperrgebiet

  We pushed our aerie out of the hangar at the Rundu airfield into the crisp morning air and took off into a pale blue African sky. Our next stop was Etosha National Park, one of Africa’s most famous wildlife sanctuaries in the Kunene region of north-western Namibia.

As we gained altitude thousands of miles of bushveld stretched, deep and impenetrable, beneath us. Remote thatched African villages and dirt footpaths were the only sign of human habitation in this vast African wilderness as we made our way west towards Etosha.

As we neared Etosha the scenery slowly changed into Mopane scrubland in full autumn regalia. The Etosha pans shimmered like a mirage in the distance, pale and translucent against the baked earth. As we came closer the sun reflected off the water in flashes of silver and herds of Wildebeest snaked in ant trails across the endless milky expanse of the pans.

Flying over the milky white expanse of the Etosha Pans

Animal tracks lead to water on the vast white of the Etosha pans

A herd of Wildebeest cross the Etosha pans in their relentless search for water

We landed at the Ongava airstrip in fairly strong winds, however as soon as our wheels touched the chalky white soil we knew we were in for something special.



We had been told that getting landing permits inside Etosha was virtually impossible so Taleni Village was our choice of accommodation. Taleni borders Anderson Gate so we were in easy driving distance to the park and it has fantastic safari style tented accommodation. http://www.etosha-village.com/

This lodge is tucked away in dense stands of Mopane and Purple Terminalia and has won awards for its ingenious eco-friendly architecture. As you walk into your tent you are greeted by an enormous fluffy bed clad in crispy white linen with the most beautiful views of the bushveld beyond – a perfect place for a sleep wrapped in the silence and deep earthy warmth of an African afternoon.



Jan photographing Ground Squirrels at Okakeujo Camp

 

We arranged for a morning and an afternoon game drive and with nearly 150 mammal species to be found in the park, including several rare and endangered species such as the Black rhino, Black-faced impala, Tssesebe and Gemsbok we knew we were in for some very special sightings.

An ancient tusker at the Okakeujo waterhole

 

Zebra drinking at the Okakeujo waterhole

   

A Springbok lying in the grass in the late afternoon





The unusual Black-faced Impala

On the afternoon drive we found ourselves at a waterhole north of Okakeujo at sunset. The landscape was bathed in that special golden light that seemingly highlights each and every blade of grass. Silently, an enormous Black Rhino emerged out of the grasslands, his physical presence was mammoth, he seemed to be moulded from then very earth itself.

The endangered Black Rhino in the golden grasslands of Southern Etosha

Lips wet from drinking, this Rhino posed for us in the late afternoon light

We watched in breathless wonder as he came down to drink in contemplative solitude. It really is a tragedy to think that only 2000 of these magnificent creatures are said to still roam free in Africa and that their numbers continue to dwindle as they are poached for traditional Asian medicine and for dagger handles in Yemen and Oman.

Driving back to Anderson gate that afternoon we spotted a flock of Ostrich on the side of the road. Suddenly one peeled away from the group, its wings out and waving like a mad cabaret dancer. It started running at a terrific speed parallel to the road, weaving and twirling and finally ending its charge with a spirited pirouette. We had just witnessed the graceful mating dance of the Ostrich. What magic!

We ended our day sitting around a blazing fire, braaiing lamb chops and drinking ice cold beer. Again we found ourselves thanking our lucky stars that we had been born in Africa, this place of indescribable beauty……..

There are numerous organisations that are involved in Rhino Conservation in Southern Africa. To find out more on how to get involved please visit the following websites:

Endangered Wildlife Trust: https://www.ewt.org.za/
World Wide Fund for Nature: http://www.wwf.org.za/
Save the Rhino: http://www.savetherhino.org/